Big Cypress National Preserve — Adventures in Photography

There is a lot more to Florida than just beaches and amusement parks. Right on the southern end of Florida, lies an important ecosystem which is home to around 45–55 members of the ever-dwindling panther population; Big Cypress National Preserve. This preserve, governed by the US National Park Service, was established on October 4, 1974; being the first National Preserve created in the United States.

Gator Hole at the end of the boardwalk at Kirby Storter Roadside Park, right off of US-41. (Photo: Victoria Rubarski)

Despite having lived in Florida for my entire life (20 years!), I had never set foot in Big Cypress, or any area near The Everglades until just a few short days ago, as I search for a Florida panther, the one animal I’m desperately trying to add to my photography portfolio. It took me close to two hours to drive all the way from Cape Coral to the Preserve, taking US-41 (Tamiami Trail) the whole way down.

The drive was typical for any type of driving in Florida… Dealing with insane people who will tailgate you despite the fact that you yourself are going 30 miles-per-hour over the speed limit, and then have the audacity to zip around you, flipping the bird as they go Mach 7 speeds, racing ahead of the traffic. (Only to stop at the next red light with me awkwardly pulling up next to them.)

Once you leave the high-end downtown area of Naples, turning onto the US-41 corridor that carries you into the heart of Big Cypress, the scenery changes abruptly. You go from being surrounded by high-end retail stores, and the rich people driving their Jaguars and Ferraris, to a bunch of gated communities, before it all just… Drops into swamp. The three lanes turn into one, and all you can see is the vast landscape on both sides of US-41, as you head straight into the heart of Big Cypress National Preserve, which the road cuts right through.

My first stop was the Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center.

Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center. (Photo: Juan C Aguero)

There, you’ll find lots of educational material about the preserve, plus a gift shop. It was there that I met an employee who provided me with all of the information I needed for reaching out to the volunteer coordinator so that I can apply for the Invasive Species Management Team! He also provided me with several maps of different locations within the preserve to visit, which came in handy when I got lost three separate times when I realized that I had passed the road or spot I was supposed to turn onto.

Behind the visitor center is a short boardwalk. There are times that manatees will come from the Gulf during the “colder” periods and hang out in the water behind the visitor center.

No manatees today or many animals, but still a nice spot regardless! (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

After leaving the visitor center, I headed to Birdon Road, one of the dirt roads available for you to drive on to scope out more wildlife.

Right off of the bridge at the beginning of Birdon Road. (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

The drive is around 27 miles, going all the way up Birdon Road, turning right onto Wagon Wheel Road, then to Turner River Road; carrying you back to US-41. Patience is key here, especially if you’re pining to see a panther, or other shyer wildlife that hides out in the rural backcountry. I’ll admit that I lost my patience one or two times when birds kept flying off right as I got my camera ready to take pictures of them!

A lesser used dirt road that is one way only, leading to a dead end. I had to pray that someone didn’t come onto the road behind me when I was turning my car around. I’m certain my Corolla was cursing me with each bump I drove over. (Photo: Victoria Rubarski)

Finally, after what seemed to be around an hour at most, I finally was able to get pictures of some birds!

Left: A tricolor heron hiding in some trees on the side of the road, looking for a decent lunch. Right: A little blue heron stands on a concrete drain, keeping an eye on its surroundings. (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

This anhinga just caught itself a small fish! (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

Once I was getting closer to getting back out on US-41, I looked over to see an alligator laying down on the grass right next to a creek. I knew better to stay in my car, unlike some tourists…

It HAD been sleeping peacefully… Until it noticed me awkwardly climbing through my car to get a good angle on it. This is also how most alligators spend their day… What a life! (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

Right before Turner River Road ends, and you get back onto US-41, there is a neat spot to stop to see some alligators!(And go to the bathroom, because that long of a drive through nothing but rural areas took a toll on me.) HP Williams Roadside Park has a boardwalk, where in the water below, are lots of alligators. Also, there’s a picnic area, with a wall dividing it from the water… Although there is a good sized portion of the wall missing that an alligator could climb through, so make sure that you’re being aware of your surroundings. Stay at least 15 feet away from a gator if you see one.

Left: An alligator resting on the branches of a tree. Right: The smaller alligator who would attempt to yank the larger one off of his cozy perch… And fail miserably. (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

If you look up into the trees, you’ll see birds resting in the branches above.

Left: A double-crested cormorant that was more than happy to stay above the water after watching the short-lived fight that broke out. Right: A tricolored heron perching on a cable near one of the bridges close to the roadside park. (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

Once you notice one gator, you begin to notice more and more floating about the waters.

Gators, gators, and even more gators. (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

I left the roadside park once more people started walking around on the boardwalk, and headed on my way towards my next stop: Kirby Storter Roadside Park. This spot offers a picnic area as well, plus a nice walk that takes you through an area with dwarf cypress trees, before heading into a slough.

A slightly longer walk, but paired with beautiful sights. (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

At one point on the boardwalk, there is a sign with information about panthers, including a sign that stresses the importance of caution in areas where they live. Remember, just because there aren’t many panthers, (only about 45–55 live within Big Cypress) it doesn’t mean that there isn’t the possibility of meeting one, possibly even an aggressive individual. Treat the panther as you would treat any type of puma and be aware of your surroundings at all times!

Further along the boardwalk, deep in the slough, the sounds of the traffic on nearby US-41 are very quiet. (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

At the end of the boardwalk is a Gator Hole. These holes are small ponds carved out by alligators who often use these spots for courtship and mating. Thanks to the alligators, these spots also provide homes and drinking water for other animals. (And easy access for food for the gators… Gators only eat once a week, so hopefully some of the guests have come to know their host’s eating schedule.)

Left: A shy turtle slips away, hiding underneath the boardwalk. Right: An anhinga spreads out its wings to dry after a dive in the Gator Hole behind us. (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

The last stop that I actually took pictures at, was the Oasis Visitor Center. Here, there is a boardwalk, just slightly longer than the one at the Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center. Here, there were two alligators and several turtles… And also where I really got a true taste of the Circle of Life.

A large alligator relaxes in the grass underneath the boardwalk. (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

The alligator pictured above had been laying in the same spot for several minutes, until the movement of a smaller alligator nearby caused him to slowly leave his grassy sanctuary, and start heading over. Larger alligators are known to eat smaller ones, and it certainly wasn’t our small friend’s first rodeo.

Left: The larger alligator starts swimming over. Right: The smaller alligator keeps a close eye on him, and then speeds off, hiding in a tangle of grass and branches once the larger one turns towards him. (Photos: Victoria Rubarski)

After that, the smaller gator refused to come out of hiding, and the latter seemed to disappear. I walked down the boardwalk, and a soft-shelled turtle was floating right below the surface of the water.

I’d like to put this in my collection of “Photos that precede disastrous events”. (Photo: Victoria Rubarski)

I spent a couple of minutes watching this turtle and took a few pictures. I decided to change the lenses on my camera, and went to reach for my bag. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw some movement in the water, and when I looked up, all I could see was the jaws of the larger alligator from earlier closing around my soft-shelled friend. “Shelley Boy”, as I have dubbed him, was practically snapped in half. I could only sit there in shock as the larger alligator swam away with him. Rest in peace, Shelley Boy…

(I was considering adding the picture of the alligator with the turtle in its mouth after the fact, but not everyone might be able to stomach that!)

After that, I left the visitor center, and went on to Loop Road. I didn’t take pictures there, due to the fact that I was avoiding potholes left and right, as well as dealing with flooded roads. It was a little bit of a bummer, because there were lots of birds on the trail!

Overall, the experience at Big Cypress National Preserve is amazing for any wildlife lover or photographer alike! Although I didn’t see any panthers this time, I know that if I keep being persistent and patient, I’ll be sure to see one eventually.

As well as exploring Big Cypress, right next door is the Everglades National Park, as well as various other parks and wildlife refuges. (Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge and Fakahatchee State Park, to name a couple.) Taking a few days to explore the area is definitely recommended! Remember not to harass or feed wildlife and pick up after yourselves. Please also drive carefully on US-41 through Big Cypress- the speed limit might say 60 mph, but there are many animals that get injured and killed due to careless driving. Be mindful that wildlife is crossing and drive slower when necessary, and stop to allow animals to cross. You are in their habitat.

Thank you for reading through this! I am still learning photography, so some of my photos might not be as great as some of the more experienced nature photographers. If you’d like to see more photos, I have a Facebook page for my photography that you can go check out!